Quesbo · A puppy to make and cuddle
Curly fleece, floppy ears and a friendly stitched face become a soft little cockapoo with a gentle, cushion-like squeeze.
A cockapoo’s soft curls, floppy ears and gentle expression make a lovely starting point for a handmade puppy. This little version has an apricot coat, caramel ears, an ivory muzzle and a cheerful face made entirely with fabric and thread.
The body is a simple two-panel cushion: the head, tummy and two bottom paws belong to one continuous outline. Flat ears are sewn into the head seam, while the eyes, muzzle and chest are soft felt appliqué. A light layer of filling gives the puppy a cosy squeeze; it springs back like a small cushion rather than slow-rise foam.
Make it together over several relaxed sessions. Children can choose a puppy palette, trace the larger shapes, arrange the face and help with filling. An adult takes care of cutting, stitching and finishing. The pleasure is in watching a few soft shapes turn into a character, one small detail at a time.
A cosy project to share
Little maker
Choose the colours, stroke the fleece to find its pile direction, trace the large paper shapes, count the ten fabric pieces and arrange the face. Help add small tufts of stuffing only after the adult has detached and parked the needle.
Grown-up helper
Check the print scale and materials, cut the fabric, prepare and use the needle, sew every attachment and seam, clip curves, help with turning and complete the final inspection.
Before you begin. Work at a clear table with close adult supervision and use sewing clips rather than loose pins. Count the needle at the start and end of each session and return it to a pincushion whenever you pause. Keep thread, small fabric pieces and loose stuffing away from younger children. This family craft is not for babies, toddlers, mouthing or use as a pet chew toy. Put the puppy aside for repair if a seam or detail loosens.
Gather a small basket of soft materials
| Material | What to prepare |
|---|---|
| Apricot teddy or sherpa fleece | Two rectangles at least 22 × 16 cm, plus a little spare for stitch practice. Choose short pile, approximately 3–5 mm, on a stable backing. Makes the two body panels. Avoid long loose fur or very stretchy, flimsy fabric for this first version. |
| Caramel fleece for the ears | Two pieces at least 10 × 7 cm, with a similar short curly pile. Forms the outward-facing side of each floppy ear. |
| Cream smooth fleece for ear linings | Two pieces at least 10 × 7 cm. Makes the soft inner side of each ear without adding filling. |
| Ivory felt, about 1–1.5 mm thick | A piece about 15 × 15 cm is ample for the two eye ovals, muzzle and chest. Provides a smooth surface for the embroidered features. All four felt pieces stay flat. |
| Polyester sewing thread | Matching apricot, caramel and ivory thread. Used for the structural seams and attaching felt. Test a short backstitched seam on scraps first. |
| Embroidery floss | Black for pupils, nose and smile; ivory for tiny eye highlights; tan for the toe marks. Use two strands for the face and two or three for the short toe lines. Keep stitches small and close to the fabric. |
| Polyester toy filling | A few small handfuls, added a pinch at a time. You may not need all of it. Gives the body a gentle squeeze. Do not put filling inside the ears or underneath the felt details. |
| Adult sewing tools | A suitable hand-sewing needle, embroidery needle, pincushion, fabric scissors, small sewing clips and an optional thimble. The adult selects a needle that passes through the fabric backing without excessive force. |
| Paper and marking tools | The printed A4 patterns, paper scissors, a ruler, pencil and a fabric marker tested on a scrap. Used to check scale, trace the cutting lines and transfer the seam and placement marks. |
| A tidy working tray | One shallow tray and a small bag or container for scraps. A blunt turning tool is optional. Keeps the ten cut pieces together and makes it easy to clear away loose fibres before the filling stage. |
Your measured cutting pattern
Print all three sheets on A4 paper at actual size / 100%, then measure both sides of the 20 mm check square on each sheet. Adjust the print scale and reprint if a square does not measure 20 mm. The body and ear patterns already include the 6 mm seam allowance; do not add another one. The felt pieces are cut to their finished outline. Follow the measured cutting, seam, ear-root and opening marks rather than tracing an illustration. There are ten cut fabric pieces in total.
Open each full-resolution sheet below and save it before printing on A4 paper. Use actual size / 100% where available; print settings vary, so check both sides of the labelled calibration square. Do not trace from a screen or a scaled preview. The body and ear pieces include the 6 mm seam allowance; felt details need no added allowance.
Cutting list
| Piece & quantity | Colour & size |
|---|---|
|
Continuous puppy body Cut 2 |
Apricot short-pile curly fleece 200 mm high × 140 mm wide at the maximum points; 6 mm seam allowance included |
|
Outer ears Cut 2 |
Caramel short-pile curly fleece 80 × 46 mm maximum; cut root 36 mm wide; 6 mm seam allowance included |
|
Ear linings Cut 2 |
Cream smooth fleece Same ear pattern as the outers; 80 × 46 mm maximum |
|
Eye ovals Cut 2 |
Ivory felt 18 × 22 mm each; no seam allowance |
|
Oval muzzle Cut 1 |
Ivory felt 60 × 38 mm; no seam allowance |
|
Oval chest bib Cut 1 |
Ivory felt 38 × 45 mm; no seam allowance |
Practise the small stitches before meeting your puppy
Prepare the thread and understand the two fabric sides
The right side is the face you want to see: curly pile on the outer fleece and the chosen soft face of the lining. The wrong side is the reverse or backing. Right sides together means the attractive faces touch and the backing faces out. For hand sewing, the adult prepares a manageable thread about 35–40 cm long and knots the starting end. Use matching polyester sewing thread for the seams; split embroidery floss into the required strands for the face. Keep knots on the reverse.
Backstitch: a closely sewn structural seam
Bring the needle up on the marked seam line. Go back one short stitch length and take the needle down, then bring it up one stitch length ahead of the first point. Return to the end of the previous stitch and repeat. The small stitches meet on the visible side and overlap underneath. Aim for stitches about 2–3 mm long, passing through both fabric backings. Do not use widely spaced running stitches for the body or ears. Ease the thread snugly without gathering the fabric.
Whip stitch: attach a flat felt detail
Bring the needle up through the fleece just outside the felt edge. Take it down through the felt and fleece about 2 mm inside that edge. Bring it up slightly farther along, just outside the felt again, and repeat with small slanting stitches roughly 2–3 mm apart. Catch the fleece backing, not just its curls. Work around the entire shape so no edge can lift. Pull gently enough to keep the felt flat.
Satin stitch and short backstitches: draw the face
For a pupil or nose, place short stitches close together across the marked shape until the felt underneath is covered. Keep the threads flat and avoid loose loops. Outline the little smile with short backstitches, following the curved guide. One tiny ivory stitch makes a glint in each pupil. On the paws, two short tan lines per paw suggest toes; they do not divide the fabric into separate legs.
Ladder stitch: close the last opening
After filling, fold each raw edge of the opening inward by 6 mm. Hide the starting knot inside a fold. Take a small bite, about 2–3 mm long, along one folded edge; cross directly to the other side and take the same-sized bite along that fold. Continue from side to side. The short crosswise threads look like ladder rungs until you gently draw them together. The folds should meet without a ridge, tucked-in curls or exposed filling.
Secure the end before putting down the needle
On an open piece, finish with small anchoring stitches and a close knot on the reverse, then trim the tail. At the final stuffed seam, the adult makes a small anchoring stitch, passes the needle through the resulting thread loop and draws a close knot. Repeat once, then take the needle through the seam into the filling and out a short distance away. Pull gently and trim the thread so the tail slips inside. Count and park the needle.
Practise each stitch on scraps first, with the adult handling the needle. Use the written steps and measured seam lines when assembling your puppy.
Make your cuddly cockapoo in 18 steps
Prepare the fabric and stitched features, make the floppy ears, then join, turn and lightly fill your puppy.
- 01 · Prepare the fleece and find the direction of the curls
- 02 · Trace and cut the two matching body panels
- 03 · Cut the four pieces for the floppy ears
- 04 · Cut the felt details and arrange a friendly face
- 05 · Embroider the two bright eyes
- 06 · Give the muzzle its nose and little smile
- 07 · Sew the eyes and muzzle onto the front
- 08 · Add the chest bib and little toe marks
- 09 · Sew the two ear pairs with their right sides together
- 10 · Turn the ears and smooth their curves
- 11 · Baste the ear roots onto the decorated front
- 12 · Make the body sandwich and mark the opening
- 13 · Backstitch the body seam and reinforce the ears
- 14 · Reduce bulky curves without cutting the seam
- 15 · Turn the puppy right side out
- 16 · Add the filling a tiny tuft at a time
- 17 · Close the side with tiny ladder stitches
- 18 · Check your puppy and enjoy its gentle squeeze
Prepare the fleece and find the direction of the curls
Child explores the fabric · adult prepares
Spread the apricot fleece flat and stroke it gently in different directions. Even curly fleece usually lies more smoothly one way. Choose the direction that will run from the puppy’s head towards its feet, then mark that direction on the reverse with a tested fabric marker. Do the same for the caramel ears.
Follow the fabric supplier’s preparation instructions before cutting. Keep the fabric relaxed rather than stretched, and distinguish its curly right side from the backing. Set out the cream lining and ivory felt separately. The adult clears loose fibres from the table; a small scrap is useful for checking the needle and thread before working on the puppy.
Ready to move on? The fabrics lie flat, the right and wrong sides are clear, and both body panels will have their pile running towards the feet.
Trace and cut the two matching body panels
Child traces · adult cuts
Check the print square, cut out the paper body pattern and place it on the reverse of the apricot fleece. Keep its head-to-feet direction aligned with your pile mark. Trace the outside cutting line without pulling the fabric, then transfer the ear-root marks and the 6 mm seam line.
Repeat on the second piece. The adult cuts each panel separately with controlled, shallow snips, taking care not to stretch the backing or shear away more pile than necessary. The head, tummy and two paw bulges remain one continuous piece. Do not cut along the seam line, cut off the paws or make the shallow paw notch deeper.
Lay the two panels together to compare their outlines. Trim only obvious cutting irregularities, then choose one for the decorated front. On the wrong side of the plain back only, transfer the two opening marks from the pattern. Keep that marked back aside until the body is assembled; do not independently mark a second gap on the front.
Ready to move on? You have two matching 200 × 140 mm maximum body shapes, with the original broad neck and shallow paw notch.
Cut the four pieces for the floppy ears
Child counts · adult cuts
Use the ear pattern to cut two caramel outer pieces and two cream lining pieces. Follow the pattern’s direction and match the markings. If the pattern is turned over to produce a matching pair, turn the paper over as directed while keeping the fleece pile running towards the ear tips.
Keep the straight root edge at its full 36 mm width. This measurement includes the two 6 mm side allowances, which will leave a 24 mm opening between the side seams for turning. Do not narrow the raw root to 24 mm. The adult cuts the rounded tips smoothly and clears the loose cut fibres away.
Make two pairs in your tray, each containing one caramel outer and one cream lining. They remain unsewn for now.
Ready to move on? There are four ear pieces: two caramel, two cream, with full-width 36 mm cut roots.
Cut the felt details and arrange a friendly face
Child arranges · adult cuts
Cut two ivory eye ovals, one muzzle and one chest bib from the measured felt patterns. These four pieces have no seam allowance. Keep the edges smooth and leave them flat; the nose and smile will be made with thread, not extra pieces.
Place the body front right side up. Use the placement sheet to arrange the two eyes above the muzzle and the chest bib below the head. Check that every felt edge is at least 12 mm inside the body cutting edge, leaving room for the seam and a little clear fleece.
Let the child compare the expression and count all ten fabric pieces in the project. Transfer only the small placement and embroidery marks needed, testing your marker first. Lift the felt pieces off again before beginning the embroidery.
Ready to move on? The four felt details fit comfortably within the body, and the eye and muzzle guides are ready to stitch.
Embroider the two bright eyes
Adult stitches · child chooses the expression
Work on the two separate ivory eye ovals. Mark the pupil positions from the embroidery guide, then use two strands of black floss to fill each small oval with closely placed satin stitches. The pupils are approximately 8 × 11 mm; follow the guide rather than making them so large that the ivory border disappears.
Keep the thread lying flat on the felt. Turn the piece as needed to make short, controlled stitches, and secure the ends neatly on the reverse. Add one tiny ivory stitch to each black pupil for a gentle highlight.
Place the eyes beside one another to check they form a friendly pair. An adult gently rubs a finger over the stitching to check for loose loops before putting them back in the tray.
Ready to move on? Both eyes have secure black thread pupils and tiny ivory highlights, with no hard components.
Give the muzzle its nose and little smile
Adult stitches · child watches the face appear
Take the separate ivory muzzle and transfer the small nose and mouth guides. Fill the rounded triangular nose with short black satin stitches, approximately 12 × 9 mm overall. The felt underneath stays flat; there is no nose button or separate stuffed snout.
Using short black backstitches, sew a line down from the nose and follow the two small curves of the Y-shaped smile. Keep the curves balanced, but do not worry about tiny handmade differences. A restrained smile suits the puppy’s gentle expression.
Fasten the thread on the reverse. Check that the stitches are snug, the muzzle is not puckered and no long loose thread can be caught by a finger. The child can hold the muzzle beside the finished eyes to see the face before it is attached.
Ready to move on? The muzzle has a flat embroidered nose and secure Y-shaped smile, with a clear border for sewing it down.
Sew the eyes and muzzle onto the front
Child checks placement · adult stitches
Return the two eyes and muzzle to their marked positions on the body front, right side facing up. Check the placement sheet again before sewing. The backing must stay relaxed: stretching it now can distort the face when the puppy is filled.
With matching ivory thread, the adult whip-stitches around every felt edge. Take small bites about 2 mm inside the felt and catch the fleece backing below. Sweep the surrounding curls away from the next stitch with your fingers so they do not become trapped across the eye or muzzle.
Secure each thread on the reverse before moving to the next piece. The child can compare the completed expression with the illustration once the needle has been parked. The chest and ears are still absent at this stage.
Ready to move on? Both eyes and the whole muzzle are attached flat, with all edges held securely and no gathered fleece.
Add the chest bib and little toe marks
Child arranges · adult stitches
Place the ivory chest bib on its guide beneath the head. Stitch around the entire oval with small matching whip stitches, catching the backing and keeping the felt flat. Leave the clear space around the body edge available for the joining seam.
Use tan floss to sew two short toe lines on each integrated bottom paw. Follow the placement guide and make each line from short, close backstitches. These are decorative marks only: do not cut between them or pull them tightly enough to divide the filling into separate limbs.
Secure the ends on the reverse and check the whole front. You now have the complete face, one chest bib and four short toe lines. Put it aside flat while you make the ears.
Ready to move on? The front is fully decorated, with two toe marks per paw and no loose appliqué edges.
Sew the two ear pairs with their right sides together
Adult stitches
Place one caramel outer against one cream lining with their right sides touching. The backing faces outward. Align the curved edges and the straight root, then hold the layers with small sewing clips. Repeat for the second pair.
Backstitch 6 mm inside the cut edge around the sides and rounded tip of each ear. Start at one end of the root, follow the marked seam and stop at the other end, leaving the entire straight root unsewn. Secure the start and finish. Work in short sections and remove each clip before reaching it.
Use stitches about 2–3 mm long through both backings. Push the curls inward as you sew so they stay inside the ear sandwich. The two side seams should leave approximately 24 mm of clear opening at the root for turning.
Ready to move on? Each ear is sewn around its sides and tip, with a secure seam and an open straight root.
Turn the ears and smooth their curves
Adult turns · child compares
The adult reduces any bulky allowance around the rounded ear tip with a few small notches, staying at least 2 mm away from the stitches. Keep the root allowance intact. Check that no stitch has been clipped before turning.
Gently draw the ear through its open root, a little at a time. Use fingertips to roll the curved seam towards the edge; a blunt turning tool can help without poking hard. Never use scissors or the needle to push out the tip. Repeat for the second ear.
Smooth the caramel outer and cream lining. The ears should be soft, flat and empty. Their side allowances have turned inside, so each unfinished root is now approximately 24 mm wide. Do not fill the ears or sew the roots closed separately: those edges will be secured inside the body seam.
Ready to move on? You have two right-side-out, unstuffed floppy ears with open raw roots.
Baste the ear roots onto the decorated front
Adult positions and stitches · child checks the pair
Lay the decorated body front right side up. At each marked upper-head attachment, place a turned ear with its furry caramel face down against the puppy front and its cream lining facing up. After the two side allowances turn inside, the ear root is approximately 24 mm wide. Align that turned root between the two attachment marks, with its unfinished edge flush with the body cutting edge. Fold the long tip inward and down towards the chest.
This arrangement looks temporarily back-to-front because the body will be turned later. Both ears lie inside the puppy outline and may cover part of the face. Their long tips must stay away from the future outside seam; only the raw roots meet the marked head edges.
Baste across each root 3 mm from the raw edge, through the ear layers and body front. These temporary stitches sit inside the 6 mm seam allowance. Compare the root markings, check the ears form a matching pair and gently fold them back inward before the next step.
Ready to move on? Both roots are aligned and basted; furry faces point down, cream linings up, and ear tips lie safely inside the body outline.
Make the body sandwich and mark the opening
Adult aligns and clips
Take the plain body back and place it right side down over the decorated front. The two curly body faces now touch, with the ears tucked between them. The smooth backing of the back panel faces you. Match the head, waist, paws and other marks without stretching either layer.
Clip the outside edge at manageable intervals. Check carefully around both ears: their roots are in the seam area, but their long tips and all other edges are clear of it. Gently lift a section of the back if you need to look inside before clipping it again.
Find the two opening marks already transferred to this exposed back panel. They enclose a 60 mm gap on the lower right side when looking at the marked backing, as shown on the cutting template. Keep that gap away from the paw notch and clearly identify it before sewing. Use these marks throughout rather than transferring a separate, mirrored gap to the other panel.
Ready to move on? The body outlines coincide, the ears are enclosed, and the 60 mm opening is clearly marked on the correct side.
Backstitch the body seam and reinforce the ears
Adult stitches
Start at one opening mark and secure the thread. Sew on the 6 mm seam line around the body, travelling the long way to the other opening mark. Use close backstitches about 2–3 mm long, passing through both backings. Remove clips as you reach them and keep checking that the layers have not slipped.
Take particular care at the ear roots. The final seam must pass through both ear layers as well as the two body panels. Sew a second pass along the same seam line across each root for reinforcement, then continue around the body. Keep the long ear tips tucked away from your needle.
Follow the gentle waist and shallow paw notch with small stitches. Stop and secure the thread at the second opening mark. Do not join across the 60 mm gap: it is needed for turning and filling.
Ready to move on? The body seam is continuous except for the marked gap, and both ear roots have been caught and reinforced.
Reduce bulky curves without cutting the seam
Adult only
Inspect the seam while the body is still wrong side out. Check for missed layers, loose stitches and accidental catches in the folded ears. Correct any problem now, when the stitching is easy to reach.
At rounded outward curves, remove only a little bulky seam allowance with small notches where needed. At inward curves, such as the waist and shallow paw notch, make a few short clips into the allowance so it can spread after turning. Keep every cut at least 2 mm away from the stitched line.
Do not trim the 6 mm allowance beside the opening, and do not cut through the reinforced ear roots. Work slowly with the scissor tips under control. Clear away all small clippings before the child handles the work again.
Ready to move on? The stitches are intact, the curves can relax and the opening still has its full 6 mm allowance.
Turn the puppy right side out
Adult guides · child sees the reveal
Find the side opening and gently feed a small section of the body through it. Continue a little at a time rather than pulling hard on the ears, felt face or narrowest part of the body. The decorated front and the ears will gradually appear.
Use your fingers to settle the head, waist and two paw bulges. If needed, an adult can use a blunt turning tool lightly inside a rounded area. The seams should roll towards the edge without being forced. Release trapped curls with fingertips rather than dragging a sharp tool through the seam.
Check that the caramel ear outers face forward and the cream linings sit behind. The body is still empty and relatively flat; the opening remains visible. This is the moment to correct a caught ear or other seam problem before adding filling.
Ready to move on? The whole puppy is right side out, both ears hang freely and the body remains empty with its side gap open.
Add the filling a tiny tuft at a time
Child helps fill · adult supervises
Before the child begins, the adult detaches any working thread from the needle, counts the needle and parks it securely in the pincushion. Clear the scissors, scraps and other sharp tools away from the filling area.
Pull the polyester filling into small airy tufts. Add a little through the side gap and guide it gently towards the head and paw bulges with your fingers. Continue gradually through the centre, smoothing the outside between additions. Do not stuff the ears or push filling under the felt appliqué.
Aim for a softly rounded centre around 30–40 mm thick, not a tightly packed body. A gentle squeeze should compress it easily. If the seam feels strained or the opening edges must be pulled together, remove a little filling. Keep all loose tufts in the tray and clear the table when the child has finished.
Ready to move on? The puppy feels softly cushioned, has no hard lumps and its opening edges meet naturally without force.
Close the side with tiny ladder stitches
Adult stitches
With child-assisted filling finished, the adult threads the parked needle with fresh matching sewing thread. Tuck the filling away from the opening and fold both raw edges inward by 6 mm, following the continuation of the existing seam. Keep the folds even and brush the curls away from them.
Hide the starting knot inside one fold beside the closed seam. Take a 2–3 mm bite along that fold, cross directly to the opposite fold and take another small bite. Continue from side to side, making a row of small ladder rungs. After several stitches, gently draw the thread until the folds meet; do not pull them into a tight ridge.
Close the whole gap, secure the thread with small anchoring stitches and a close knot, then bury the tail inside as described in the stitch guide. Check that no filling is visible. Count and park the needle before handing the puppy back.
Ready to move on? The opening is fully closed, the seam lies softly and the thread end is secured and hidden.
Check your puppy and enjoy its gentle squeeze
Adult checks · child enjoys
The adult inspects the entire outside seam, both ear roots, all felt edges and the embroidery. Use a gentle finger check to look for loose threads or gaps; give each ear a light, controlled tug to check its attachment. This is a finishing check, not a substitute for ongoing supervision and care.
Smooth the curls and settle the filling with a gentle squeeze. The puppy should feel like a small soft cushion, with floppy empty ears and flat felt details. Its two paw bulges belong to the body outline, so it can rest against a cushion or lie beside a book without needing a rigid support.
Let the child choose a name, compare the finished colours with the original plan and enjoy the details they helped create. Put the puppy aside for an adult repair whenever a seam or feature starts to loosen.
Ready to move on? All sewing is secure, the needle is accounted for and the finished puppy is ready for gentle handling.
Three beautiful puppy palettes to try
Keep the same ten pattern pieces and the same sewing method, then let the fleece colours give each puppy its own character. Choose threads that blend with the fabric and keep the ivory facial details easy to see.
Apricot cuddle
Warm apricot curls, deeper caramel ears and creamy details create the original sunny puppy. Tan toe stitches add a quiet finishing touch.
Honey and cream
A cream fleece body with honey-coloured ears feels soft and bright. Use ivory felt and a slightly deeper matching thread where needed so the appliqué edges remain clear.
Chocolate companion
Chocolate-brown fleece with warm tan ears and ivory felt details gives a lovely contrast. Keep the embroidered black eyes within their pale felt ovals so the expression stays readable.
A little help if something feels tricky
The fleece layers slide or stretch
Lay them flat again without pulling and add clips closer together. Sew a short section at a time, catching both backings. If a section has gathered or slipped, the adult unpicks it carefully and resews it before turning.
The needle is difficult to push through
Pause rather than forcing it. Check that the needle suits the fabric and is not damaged, and practise on scraps. At a bulky ear root, take small controlled stitches through the layers with an adult’s thimble if useful. Choose a less bulky short-pile fabric if the sample seam remains difficult.
The felt face looks puckered
The thread may be too tight or the fleece stretched underneath. Before joining the body, the adult loosens or replaces the affected stitches, lets the backing relax and reattaches the detail with gentler tension.
An ear points the wrong way or is caught in a seam
Check the ear-root placement and orientation while the body is empty. The caramel outer should face forward after turning. If an ear tip has been caught or a root positioned incorrectly, the adult opens only the affected seam section, corrects it and sews it securely again before filling.
The turning opening feels too small
Check that it is the full marked 60 mm and has not been partly stitched closed. Feed the work through gradually without pulling on the face or ears. Do not cut a larger hole into the finished fabric; the adult can carefully remove stitches within the marked gap if it was accidentally narrowed.
The body is lumpy or too firm
Before closing, remove a little filling and tease it into smaller, airier tufts. Redistribute gently with your fingers. The opening should meet easily, and the centre should compress with a light squeeze.
The final side seam makes a ridge
Check that both edges are folded inward by the same 6 mm and that stuffing is clear of the folds. Use smaller ladder stitches with gentler tension. If already closed, the adult can carefully reopen that section and rework it.
Keep your little cockapoo cosy
Handle the puppy gently and avoid carrying it by an ear, pulling its details or squeezing it hard enough to strain a seam. Store it somewhere clean and dry, away from pets and children who may mouth it.
For a small mark, first test a barely damp cloth on an inconspicuous area, then spot-clean gently. Follow the instructions for every fabric, thread and filling used; do not assume the finished combination is machine-washable. Allow it to dry thoroughly before use and storage.
Inspect the seams, ear roots, felt edges and embroidery regularly. Stop using the puppy and put it aside for adult repair if thread loosens, a gap develops or filling becomes visible. Keep the patterns with your remaining fabric so a small repair or a future puppy is easier to plan.
Stitch references & making notes
This original Quesbo adaptation uses established appliqué and soft-cushion sewing techniques. The links below offer further sewing demonstrations and general craft guidance.
Illustrations show the design and sequence. Follow the measured templates and written instructions for cutting, placement and assembly.
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